Bodenstein’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten, harvested in late November, is one of the meatiest and most pronounced stony, salty, and mineral in a long, distinguished series. From the nose to the finish, there is a seamless weaving of elements that can only be termed “mineral” into a brothy, rich, berry, herb and vegetable matrix rather analogous to that of a Grand Cru Chablis. The long finish suggests mint, cassis, and of course salts and wet stones. Although this excellent wine looks to be less exciting than several other recent Prager Gruner Veltliner from the Achleiten, it should still, like those, be well worth following in the cellar for at least 8-10 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Lush and ripe, but it still retains that signature white pepper-celery leaf note that's a sure sign of the variety. Tastes like peaches and melons rolled in crushed stones, with a long, warm finish that retains a sense of minerality.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 92