This Zin shows classic Sonoma County character, but it’s also a tannic, young wine that wants a little time in the bottle. Tasted at the age of two, it’s astringent and jammy, with pepper-infused blackberry and mulberry flavors and a gamy touch of smoked beef. Give it until mid-2009, when it will be fantastic with grilled beef.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 92