The 2005 Shiraz “Lily’s Garden” from McLaren Vale has a splendid nose of cedar, scorched earth, violets, spice box, saddle leather, and blueberry pie. Rich and super-concentrated, it has layers of ripe flavors, a soft blanket of tannins, and terrific complexity. This surprisingly elegant Shiraz will evolve for 8-10 years and drink well through 2025. Two Hands is a negociant operation run impeccably by Michael Twelftree. It reflects the best that can be sourced from all over South Australia. The packaging provides some serious design competition to Dan Philips’ Grateful Palate and R Wines portfolio.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; www.twohandswines.com; Also tasted: 2007 Riesling “The Wolf” (82)

Ripe and generous, with a remarkably open texture for a wine so rich in flavor. The beautifully delineated blackberry, black cherry and anise flavors sail on through the long, long finish. Best from 2009 through 2016. 2,700 cases made.??–HS??Region: Australia / McLaren Vale Select to Add