The 1996 Chardonnay Durell offers citrusy, tropical fruit, and mineral aromas, medium body, excellent richness, and a long, tangy, tight but promising finish. It should unfold with another 1-2 years of bottle age, and last for 5-6 years. All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year. Readers should recognize that Kistler's policy is to sell most of their production directly to consumers and restaurants. Readers who live in states that permit direct shipment of California wines should be sure and get on the winery's mailing list. Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709