Another rich, intense wine, the 2009 Pinot Noir Presidio is loaded with fruit. Soft, silky tannins frame a gently spiced finish laced with dark red cherries, plums and mint. The integration of oak (25% new), fruit and structure is superb. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com