The Ostertag 2007 Pinot Gris Muenchberg A360P (its parcel’s identifying code on the label a holdover from times when the oak-unfriendly authorities repeatedly denied this bottling “Grand Cru” status) smells pungently, almost ominously smoky, as well as headily of ripe peach, bacon, musk, decadent lily perfume, lanolin and fresh ginger. Oily and voluminous (from 15% alcohol) as well as persistently peachy, musky, spicy, and charred, it’s surprising how little evidence this evinces of its two-thirds new barrel. That said, there is a certain genuine synergy between the barrel and “natural” Pinot Gris character in the palpable sense of spice and charred intensity of the finish here, which – also surprisingly – does not betray its alcohol as heat. This enormously impressive as well as just plain enormous Pinot Gris should certainly be carefully monitored to see how (or whether) it continues to handle its alcohol and oak. Andre Ostertag was like most of his region’s best growers very selective about what he chose to bottle in 2006. He is especially enthusiastic about his uncompromisingly intense 2007s and the sense in which the Rieslings resemble a throwback to the moderate must weights and refreshing acidity that was common in Alsace before the string of warm vintages that has been nearly uninterrupted since 1988. I was surprised to find myself as impresses as I was with the 2007 Pinot Gris bottlings here, but Ostertag says it was simply unfair until very recently to compare his results with that grape to those with Riesling, because the vines of the former were too young. They’ve passed 20 years of age now, and that, he opines, is why they can start to show their real potential (and, I would add, stand up to Ostertag’s use of barriques). While I hate to take up space with this matter, readers should be aware that wines from this estate that formerly bore the village name “Epfig” will now merely be coded with the capital letter “E” because of certain limitations that the authorities have now imposed on the use of village designates and the definition of “village level” names. (Frankly, I wouldn’t even want to understand the regulation if I thought it would prove intelligible!)Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524