Winter pear and a hint of litchi; smoked meat and musky floral perfume follow the Ostertag 2008 Pinot Gris Muenchberg A360P from its striking nose onto a deeply-rich, glossy-textured palate, and into a long finish whose undulating layers of fruit, flower, meat, and mineral matter are tinged with vanilla. A faint hint of heat from 14.5% alcohol detracts only slightly from the effect of a wine unusually lush if less vivacious than usual for its vintage. This should show well for a half dozen or more years, unless its alcohol becomes more noticeable. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524