During a recent visit to the estate I had the opportunity to taste every Batar back to 1995 and there can be no question that in top vintages it is a wine that is capable of developing further complexity with age. The standout of that tasting was the sublime 2004 Batar (50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Blanc) which captures the fullest expression of this wine. Endowed with layers of sweet fruit interwoven with mineral and sweet toasted oak notes, it offers outstanding length on the palate in a more full-bodied style than the slender 2005, with notable finesse and terrific overall balance. Although it can be enjoyed today, this wine has a history of filling out its frame with some bottle age. It is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2019. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

This Tuscan 65-35 Chardonnay-Pinot Blanc blend is golden delicious with a delicate toasty-smoky embroidery on the fringe of mature peach, vanilla, banana and white stone. It exhibits beautiful richness and depth in the mouth, with a complex collection of yellow fruit flavors, and bright acidity on the close.——M.L.(3/1/2008)—— 91