The 2008 Batar is rather pointed and focused in this vintage, which also happens to be one of the most elegant I can remember. There is wonderful purity and energy in the ripe peach fruit with subtle undertones of flowers, minerals and French oak that add complexity. The oak seems dialed down in 2008 and what comes through is the exceptional beauty of fruit planted on these high-altitude hillside vineyards. Batar is 50% Pinot Blanc and 50% Chardonnay aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Querciabella has been on a roll over the last few years. I can’t say enough good things about these wines, all of which merit your serious consideration. Querciabella doesn’t make a big deal about the fact that their vineyards are now biodynamically farmed, but then again they don’t have to?the wines speak for themselves. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Tuscan dishes celebrate fresh, seasonal ingredients such as fava beans, artichokes, asparagus, zucchini and extra virgin olive oil. This structured white wine offers the richness of texture and aromatic intensity to pair with the best of that culinary tradition.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 90