The 2009 Batar shows good up-front fleshiness in its juicy apricots, peaches and light floral honey although some of the initial depth in the wine tapers off on the finish. Batar has a track record of developing beautifully in bottle. It will be interesting to see the direction the 2009 takes. Today, it appears a measure of minerality is lacking in comparison to the finest vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. It’s not exactly as though Querciabella needed to re-invent itself, the wines had been outstanding for years, but that is exactly what is happening at this historic estate in Greve. Full credit must go to proprietor Sebastiano Castiglioni for his vision, unwavering commitment to quality and hiring of Luca Currado of Vietti to oversee the project. Querciabella recently completed the acquisition of additional vineyards in Castellina, which now gives the estate land in three different villages within Chianti Classico. The new vines are part of a project underway to make a series of single-vineyard Sangioveses from the estate’s top vineyards. Within Querciabella itself, the flagship Camartina is increasingly a vehicle for Sangiovese, which frees up the Merlot for the Palafreno. It is truly impressive to see what Castiglione and Currado have managed to achieve in just a few years, especially considering the last two vintages have not been among the most favorable.Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

This oak-aged blend of equal parts Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay opens with a beautifully intense bouquet of vanilla bean, peach cobbler and citrus mousse. White almond and toasted spice make for rich accents on the long fresh finish.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 90