In honor of his departed wife, Camarda has changed the label of the floral, dark berry-scented 2003 Sorella; it is now adorned with a painting of Annie. An assemblage of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot, it is a structured, medium-bodied wine with outstanding concentration, freshness, focus, and length. Notes of toasty oak intermingled with red cherries, blackberries, elderberries, cassis, and currants are found in its expressive flavor profile. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Tel. (206) 463-9227; www.andrewwill.com

From older Champoux Vineyard vines, Andrew Will’s Tete de Cuvee is half Cabernet Sauvignon, one quarter Merlot and the rest Franc and Petit Verdot. Tasted shortly before its official release, it was fairly reductive, extremely tight, and difficult to penetrate. Certainly a substantial and worthy Sorella, the score could go higher as it evolves. ——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 93