The finest 2008 I tasted is the 2008 Estate Cuvee, a blend of 50% Syrah, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Petit Verdot. Mocha, fudge, blackberry, graphite, cassis, and smoky barbecue scents jump from the glass of this dense purple-colored 2008. Full-bodied, rich, textured, and layered, this terrific effort is surprisingly soft and accessible. Drink it over the next decade. Consistently brilliant wines are produced by former St.-Emilion native, Stephan Asseo, who is now ensconced in the wine world of Paso Robles. These distinctively styled wines offer the power and exuberance of the fruit grown in this region along with a structured, delineated style (no doubt part of Asseo’s French DNA). These are all big wines, with the reds fashioned from innovative blends and displaying significant aging potential. The 2008 red wines are strong efforts, but they do not measure up to the brilliant 2007s Asseo produced. The two late-released 2007s I reviewed last year are certainly living up to my hype.Tel. (805) 227-1588; Fax (805) 227-6988

A step down, without the density or mid-palate weight of the prior vintages, the 2008 Estate Cuvee offers a seamless, elegant feel with its blackberry, coffee bean, licorice and toasty aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied, lightly textured and fresh, it’s still youthful and vibrant, with sweet tannin and excellent length. While it lacks the depth of a top vintage, it’s still a beautiful wine that’s a joy to drink. It should easily evolve gracefully through 2023. Tel. (805) 227-1588; www.aventurewine.com