The 2009 Estate Cuvee is a dark, seamless red. Layers of black fruit, roasted coffee beans and licorice wrap around the palate in this textured, explosive wine. The Estate Cuvee possesses dazzling aromatics and plenty of nuance, even if it is a touch reserved today. All of the elements build convincingly towards the substantial finish. In 2009 the blend is 42% Syrah, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Petit Verdot aged in 100% new French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Stephan Asseo is one of the most intriguing characters in the Paso Robles scene. A native of Pomerol, Asseo was attracted to Paso for its soil, microclimate and, most importantly of all, an opportunity to pursue the American dream with none of the constraints imposed by French regulations. Not surprisingly, Asseo’s wines show a clear connection to Bordeaux in the use of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, which are not widely planted in Paso. Most importantly, though, Asseo is one of the few producers in the area who is obsessed with the way his wines age, and in this respect a little Old World perspective can only be a good thing for a region just starting to write the first chapters of its present day history. The 2009s at L’Aventure were picked starting in September 3, on the early side for this property. The wines show plenty of radiant fruit and silky, textured personalities that are the result of a year with even, strong heat but no temperature spikes. Asseo describes the vintage as ‘very California.’ The reds were all aged in French oak and were bottled without fining or filtration just prior to my early June visit. The handful of 2010s I tasted from barrel also showed great promise. All of the L’Aventure wines are now made exclusively from estate-owned fruit and the property is in the process of being converted to biodynamic farming.Tel. (805) 227-1588; www.aventurewine.com

Also leaning toward the finesse end of the spectrum, yet with more concentration, structure and richness, the 2009 Estate Cuvee is comprised of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, with just over 15% Petit Verdot. Gorgeous, with its deep creme de cassis, licorice, toasted spice, graphite and distinct minerality, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, serious purity of fruit and a blockbuster finish. There’s actually some resemblance to the 2004 here, and it has plenty of upside. Tel. (805) 227-1588; www.aventurewine.com