Bill Smith is better known for his Pinot Noirs, but he founded La Jota and knows a thing or two about Howell Mountain Cabs. This is a big, dry, tannic mountain wine, virtually undrinkable now for its hard astringency. However, it’s a fine cellar candidate. Brims with ripe blackberries and cherries that just need time. Should begin to open in 2008, and develop for another 8 years or so.——S.H.(12/15/2007)—— 93