You don’t want to open this wine anytime soon. It’s tightly wound and immature, offering a blast of primary fruit flavors that haven’t yet integrated with the oak. It tastes almost sweet now, although it’s technically bone dry, with waves of black cherries, blackberries, mocha, anise liqueur and smoky oak vanillins, followed by a long, spicy finish. Hold until 2012, if you can, and should drink well beyond that.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 95