It’s not hard these days to get Cabernet to ripen to cherry-berry pie, currant and chocolaty richness. It is hard to squeeze that into a wonderfully crafted, classic structure, where the wine finishes perfectly dry. Bill Smith has accomplished all this in this wonderful, Bordeaux-esque wine. It’s extraordinarily delicious, and with those Howell Mountain tannins, should develop for many years. ——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 94