The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Cimarossa Vineyard offers sweet fruit and some tight tannins, but there is more potential as evidenced by the chocolatey, mineral, plum, and black currant fruit. This is a long, structured Cabernet that should be at its finest between 2011-2025. Ed Sbragia, the long-time and highly-esteemed winemaker at Beringer, also has his own family operation where he produces 5,000 plus cases of wine, primarily top-notch Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.Tel. 707-473-2992

This latest of Sbragia’s single-vineyard Cabs shows the winemaker’s penchant for ripeness and power. There’s nothing subtle about the oak and black currant flavors, which explode in the mouth. But few winemakers in California know better than Ed Sbragia how to draw elegance and subtlety from a wine of this size. Fine now, and should develop for a decade or more.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 93