I’ll admit upfront that I have a soft spot for this wine—the 1985 version was the first wine I purchased by the case (I think the whole case set me back about $60). The wine remains a bargain, even though the price tag has roughly doubled. The aromas this year are pretty restrained, but the wine explodes on the palate, giving up impressive flavors of plum, blackberry, earth and pepper, along with hints of anise and tar. The long finish confirms its quality. ——J.C.(11/15/2004)—— 87