Droin’s 2006 Chablis Grenouilles is in the highest portion of that cru. High-toned herbal and faintly bitter cassis and cyanic fruit pit notes in the nose lead to a cool, restrained, impressively complex palate amalgam of grapefruit, lime, herbs, chalky minerality, and tart black fruits. This is big-boned wine that is simply hiding its structure and clout behind its back for the time being. I would revisit it in 2-3 years and expect at least that many again in further satisfaction.Benoit Droin’s recent collections display increasing mastery of his medium and continued willingness to experiment, even as he extends his range of crus. His have become some of the most interesting wines in Chablis, not to mention being outstanding values. Droin prides himself on being able to harvest ahead of most of his colleagues – which in 2006 meant in advance of the official starting date – although he adds that 2007 has proved an exception to that rule. Droin by choice sells what for the region constitutes a relatively high one third share of his wine inside France.Importer: Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565