The 2009 Mirto is a completely different animal, darker in color, with the smoky and toasted aromas of the oak in the foreground and the ripe red and black fruit in the background. In the palate the tannins are still taking center-stage and will require some time to get resolved, but the quality of fruit is good and it will come into balance. A good modern Rioja, at a similar quality level to other wines from the winery. It's more a matter of personal taste if you prefer the more traditional or the more modern cuvees. Drink 2015-2019.
Ramon Bilbao is one of the classical names from Haro, where the winery was founded back in 1924 and that remained in the family until sold in 1972 and again in 1999 to the current owners, the Diego Zamora family, who own one of the largest drinks companies in Spain. They make the popular Licor 43, and own wineries in other appellations throughout Spain: Mar de Frades in Rias Baixas, Palacio de la Vega en Navarra and others in Ribera del Duero and Rueda. I found the average quality of the Ramon Bilbao quite impressive, especially for the volumes they produce (4 million bottles). The wines are well-crafted, clean, accessible, sensibly priced and true to their origins. No wonder they are very popular on the local market. I-m very happy to see the quality going up and would like to congratulate winemaker Rodolfo Bastida for such a good job. The Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva are fermented in inox and carry out their malolactic in cement vats. The more modern wines, Edicion Limitada, Vinedos de Altura and Mirto, are fermented in French oak vats and their malolactic takes place in barrel.
Imported by Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463; www.deutschfamily.com
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