The 2007 Meursault Les Clous-ots represents Javillier’s second vintage combining fruit from Les Clous and a recently-acquired parcel in Les Crotots (a site below Poruzots). Ripe peach, fresh lemon, and freshly-milled grains in the nose lead to a luscious, juicy palate in which honeydew melon seems to accompany the aforementioned features. This is almost delicate in its sense of lift, caressing texture, and subtle but insistent citric refreshment. While lacking quite the interplay or poise of the Tillets, it is very impressive indeed – all the way through to a chalk-tinged, persistently generously-fruited finish. I suspect it will be best enjoyed within 4-5 years.
Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180.
A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93