Potentially even better, the 2009 Vacqueyras Domaine de la Soleaide comes from very old Grenache vines blended with Syrah, all aged in cement tanks. Slightly less expensive than Les Hauts de Castellas, it represents a great expression of Provencal viticulture. Lavender, spice box, tobacco leaf, jus de viande, licorice and kirsch notes emerge from this deep, plum/ruby-colored wine along with wonderful ripeness, admirable purity and a medium to full-bodied texture with no hard edges. It, too, should drink nicely for 5-6 years. (Not yet released) This is a well-run large cooperative in Vacqueyras that admirably displays the talent involved. I tasted a dozen separate cuvees from this operation and six of them were potentially outstanding. Most of the others were competent, correct wines. This huge cooperative controls over 1,100 acres in Vacqueyras, and the wines are realistically priced for such high quality. The following six wines should change the mind of anyone with an anti-cooperative prejudice. Importers: Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392-5640; and Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (800) 597-1491