Fully mature, the 1997 Chateauneuf du Pape comes from another difficult vintage that featured hail in June and overall volatile weather that made getting consistent ripening difficult. Nevertheless, Laurent (who is known for being meticulous in the vineyard) produced a serious wine that’s still showing well today. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced, and with surprising ripeness given the conditions, it offers plenty of cigar wrapper, ground pepper, forest floor and mature fruit in its elegant, evolved profile. It’s another classy, fully mature Chateauneuf du Pape to drink over the coming couple of years. One of the softest spoken, yet reflective and hardworking people in Chateauneuf du Pape, Laurent Charvin farms his eight hectares in the northern portion of the appellation, in the lieux-dits of Maucoil, Cabrieres, and l’Arnesque, to a “T”. A sixth generation farmer (his family has been at this site since 1851), Laurent was the first to move away from selling all of their grapes to the negociants, and bottled his first release in 1990. As this tasting shows, his wines are consistently outstanding and age gracefully. In addition, Laurent also excels in the difficult vintages, which is common for vignerons who spend the majority of their time in the vineyards. Remaining staunchly in favor of a single cuvee, Laurent’s Chateauneuf du Pape is always a rough blend of 85% Grenache, 5% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Vaccarese. He never destems and the wine sees absolutely no oak, aging 21 months in large concrete tanks. In addition to his Chateauneuf, he produces a beautiful Cotes du Rhone (from the vines located around his house, next to the lieu-dit of Maucoil), and, just recently, a rose. We finished the tasting with a trio of Laurent’s Cotes du Rones, which come from vineyards located around his estate, in the northwestern part of the appellation. It’s always a rough blend of 85% Grenache and the balance Syrah and Carignan, that’s aged all in tank. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800