Laurent’s 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape continues to show brilliantly. Made from the standard estate blend of 85% Grenache and then 5% each of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Vaccarese, aged all in concrete tank, it offers up a thrilling bouquet of kirsch and darker berry-styled fruits, flowers, licorice and pepper. Gorgeous on all accounts, with full-bodied richness, beautiful purity and laser focus and precision on the palate, drink this rock-star Chateauneuf anytime over the coming 10-15 years.

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape is superb, but it has to take a back seat to the 2006. Dark ruby with notes of underbrush, the seaweed wrapper nori, kirsch liqueur, and a bit of pepper and spice box, it is deep and broad, with outstanding concentration, moderately high tannin, and a nicely structured, pure mouthfeel. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2022. Laurent Charvin is carrying on as one of the most passionate, committed young vignerons of Chateauneuf du Pape and seems to go from strength to strength with his winemaking. I have recently been drinking my stocks of the 1998, and it seems to have hit that magical sweet spot in its evolution, although it has plenty of years to go.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800