Those used to the fabulous richness of Ed Sbragia’s Chardonnays at Beringer might find this disappointing. It’s a good wine, with the Burgundian formula of half-barrel fermention in new oak, malolactic fermentation and weekly lees stirring, so it has those winemaker-added notes of creamy, yeasty smokiness. Yet the underlying pear and apple flavors are a little thin.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 86