Another brilliant effort is the 2005 Chardonnay Clos Pepe. Hazelnut, orange rind, lemon zest, and brioche characteristics are found in this crisp, elegant Chardonnay that could pass for a full-bodied French Chablis. With fine acidity, fruit, and concentration, it will drink well for 3-4 years. Tel. (805) 649-1674

A spectacular Chard, massive and pure in laser-focused Meyer lemon, Key lime pie, papaya, pepper and smoky vanilla flavors, with the most bracing minerality, a real lick of gunmetal. Brilliant now, and the firm structure should let it age smoothly for a good six years.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 93