The 2009 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast exhibits notes of crisp white peaches, underripe oranges, white currants and a hint of honeysuckle. There is no noticeable oak in this medium to full-bodied effort. It is a wine of finesse yet flavor authority that should drink nicely for 3-4 years. This is the well-run wine operation of long-time veteran winemaker, sidekick and assistant winemaker at Turley Cellars in Calistoga, Ehren Jordan, who produces cool climate reds and whites that have benefitted from the cooler than normal year of 2009. These are minimally oaked efforts and, given Jordan’s love of France, readers should not be surprised to find that they possess Francophile-like personalities. However, the rich, pure, ripe fruit of California has not been compromised. Failla’s Pinot Noir program is growing by leaps and bounds and currently eight separate Pinots are offered. Jordan intends to keep the new oak to 33% or less and, if possible, prefers to use 100% whole clusters (meaning 100% stems) and bottle early to preserve the freshness and character of Pinot Noir. These wines were all tasted post-bottling, which may have suppressed their aromatics somewhat, so I suspect my scores are on the conservative side as much of the charm and appeal of Pinot Noir is its endearing aromatics. Readers looking for a Northern Rhone look-alike should check out Failla’s two Syrahs.Tel. (707) 963-0530; Fax (707) 963-0570

Chard fans who are tired of soft, flabby wines will welcome this dry, crisp bottling. The underlying grape flavors offer lime, Meyer lemon, mango and steely minerals, while winemaker bells and whistles bring needed layers of buttered toast and vanilla cream. A beautiful, classy and elegant Chardonnay; production was only 400 cases.——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 92