The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Quintessence is made from parcels in La Garenne and Chalumeaux. It is the biggest and richest of these 2009s from Matrot. A powerful core of fruit flows effortlessly to the round, textured finish. The 50% new barrels add considerable volume and sweet hints of spiciness on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. I found myself most attracted to the entry-level wines at Matrot. A number of the basic offerings are absolutely joyous, but the more important wines aren’t markedly more complex in my view. Only the villages-level Meursault is disappointing.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Puligny Quintessance has a well-defined bouquet with fresh dewy green apples, dried apricot and a touch of almond that unfurls nicely in the glass. The palate is crisp on the entry with plenty of green apples, gooseberry and nettles flavors. There is good length, although the finish is missing just a little complexity for a Premier Cru. Tasted May 2013.