The 2006 Chardonnay Grafin De La Tour is one of the few highlights from Villa Russiz this year. This French oak-aged Chardonnay reveals superb depth and clarity in its ripe tropical fruit, minerals, flowers and sweet toasted oak. A pretty underpinning of acidity gives the wine its exquisite length and clean, refined finish. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Villa Russiz is one of Friuli’s top estates, but this is an uneven set of releases owing to the challenges of the 2007 vintage. The whites in particular show the unfocused aromatics and overly heavy quality which is common in this vintage.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

This is a sophisticated and smooth Chardonnay with an extraordinarily soft and silky texture in the mouth. The wine’s aromas recall peach blossom, caramel and butter squash and are delivered with intensity and confidence. Pair it with honey-roasted ham or stuffed pork roll.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 92