Strongly oaky at first sniff, this barrel-fermented reserve went through complete malolactic fermentation and a year and a half of barrel aging. The complexity comes out as it breathes open, a melange of nuanced fruit including guava, peach, pineapple and green apple. Skin phenolics (from whole-cluster pressing) add some bite to the lengthy finish.——P.G.(8/1/2011)—— 92