The 2006 Pinot Noir Olson Estate Vineyard is sourced from a vineyard planted in 1972, the fifth oldest in Oregon and was raised in 36% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it has plum and black cherry aromas leading to a more structured wine than its siblings. On the palate it is layered, plump, and round with good intensity and gobs of savory, spicy black fruits. It will evolve for 2-3 years and be at its best from 2012 to 2020. Torii Mor Winery was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson who continue to actively operate the winery. The winery produces 15-18,000 cases, mostly from the Dundee Hills AVA.Tel. (503) 538-4001; www.toriimorwinery.com

The 2006 Pinot Noir Olson Estate Vineyard was picked under warm conditions with yields around 2-tons per acre. It has an attractive bouquet with strawberry jam, fresh dates and a touch of cured meat - commendably fresh and tensile after ten years. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe cherry fruit, well defined with supple tannin. It feels lithe in the mouth with a touch of brown spice and cola towards the long finish. At its peak now, this is a very well-crafted Pinot Noir.

The flavors are sappy and spicy and full, and the wine has a pleasing depth and richness. The fruits run through red and purple berries and lead into hints of chocolate and leaf. The winemaking is polished and confident, and yet Jacques Tardy has left just enough roughness in the flavors to give the wine personality and character. May be cellared for up to a decade.——P.G.(10/1/2008)—— 92