The star of the portfolio is the 2009 Pinot Noir Olson Vineyard Estate. It is a massale selection of older clones that provide the most complex perfume of any of the Pinots in the collection, the darkest, richest fruit, and some power unusual in the vintage. It will benefit from 1-2 years of cellaring and is likely to be one of the longer lived wines of 2009. Torii Mor was founded in 1993 by Dr. Donald and Margie Olson. Their Olson Estate Vineyard was planted in 1972 making it one of the oldest in the state. Production now stands at 15,000 cases.Tel. (800) 839-5004; www.toriimorwinery.com

The 2009 Pinot Noir Olson Estate Vineyard was cropped at small yields due to shot berries during that season. It has a more backward bouquet than the 2010 with dark cherry and cranberry fruit, a touch of melted tar and mulch-like aromas developing. I like this. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. This is more structured than the 2010 and perhaps complex, although I find the finish to be just missing a little complexity and tension, with dried fig and date-like notes lingering in the mouth. The aromatics offer more than the palate and I suspect maybe this is just a couple of years past its peak.