Woodward Canyon’s red wines begin with the 2007 Merlot. It is a multi-regional blend containing 14% Cabernet Sauvignon. The majority of the fruit was sourced from the excellent Weinbau Vineyard. Medium crimson-colored it displays an excellent bouquet of balsam wood, Asian spices, violets, cassis, and black cherry with a hint of coffee/mocha in the background. Full-bodied and generous on the palate, it has plenty of ripe fruit, red and black fruit flavors, spice notes, and well-integrated tannin. It has the structure to evolve for 1-2 years but can be enjoyed now and over the next 6-8. Woodward Canyon, one of the pioneer producers of Walla Walla (there were 4 wineries here when I visited in 1990; now there are over 125), remains under the direction of Rick Smalls and continues to be a benchmark against which all others aspiring to the top must be compared. Tel. (509) 525-4129; www.woodwardcanyon.com

True to the dense, muscular style of Woodward Canyon’s Merlots, this elevates the complexity in a near-perfect vintage. Deep and textural, it packs together concentrated red fruits, preserves and cassis. At first it shows a little heat from the 15% alcohol, but as it breathes open over hours (and even days) the primary fruit gives way to subtle veins of olive, earth, coffee and toast.——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 95