The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is the most reserved and monolithic of Drouin's 2016s but also potentially the finest, unfurling in the glass with notes of ripe citrus fruit, smoke and clove spice. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and chewy, with a blocky, foursquare profile that encompasses considerable depth and substance. It will require time, and it isn't very charming right now, but it shows plenty of promise.