The 2017 Volnay Clos de la Cave is lovely, bursting from the glass with aromas of red berries, spices and potpourri, followed by a medium-bodied, elegantly satiny palate that's nicely concentrated despite its giving, charming profile, framed by melting tannins. This lieu-dit boasts light but surprisingly deep soils and is located on the hillside behind Bouley's winery.