The 2018 Volnay Clos de la Cave is showing beautifully in bottle, and Bouley observes that the fact that—despite its prime exposition—this site is in the shade by around 6 p.m. every evening complements its calcium-rich soils to lend it a notably ethereal profile. Wafting from the glass with scents of sweet berries, peonies, mandarin rind, raw cocoa and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and perfumed, with a bright spine of acidity, refined tannins and a lively, mineral finish.