The saturated ruby/purple-colored 1988 Amarone Classico offers peppery, asphalt, and truffle aromas, and thickly-textured, powerful flavors that are just beginning to achieve harmony between the acidity, tannin, alcohol, and fruit. This is a big, dense, savory Amarone to drink over the next 15-20 years. This heavyweight wine is an essentially dry, gutsy red with plenty of character, but it must be matched with rich cheeses or grilled foods. A Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620