The spectacular, opaque purple-colored 1997 Amarone (15.4% alcohol) is from an exceptional vintage for this appellation. It possesses a gorgeous bouquet of graphite, blackberries, plums, cherries, and truffles. Although it reveals some of Amarone's pruny, raisiny, nearly over-the-top characteristics, it is full-bodied, super-rich, and concentrated, with striking purity as well as a fabulous perfume. A touch of volatile acidity gives it even more complexity and aromatic uplift. Full, voluptuous, and deep, with huge extract hiding impressive tannin levels, this winemaking tour de force will drink well for 20+ years. Readers should keep in mind that the grapes for this wine are dried for four months prior to being crushed and fermented. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620