A regal wine just beginning to see its prime. Very spicy and just mildly astringent, there’s a huge amount of cranberry, cherries and oak on display and in reserve. Tight and nervy, this is a classy Brunello. Will be a good companion to osso buco, stewed rabbit or plain old spaghetti and meatballs.——M.S.(3/1/2000)—— 93