An outrageously superb Cabernet is the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Wall Vineyard from Mt. Veeder. Blueberry, blackberry, scorched earth, charcoal, and truffle scents soar from the glass of this opaque purple-colored offering. Tasting like a Cheval Blanc blended with a Grand-Puy-Lacoste, both on steroids, this full-bodied, heady, rich wine is pure, sensationally concentrated, and loaded with potential. It will drink well for 20-25 years. Ed Sbragia, the long-time and highly-esteemed winemaker at Beringer, also has his own family operation where he produces 5,000 plus cases of wine, primarily top-notch Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.Tel. 707-473-2992

Not surprisingly, Ed Sbragia has turned in a brilliant performance with his 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Wall Vineyard from Mt. Veeder. Blueberry liqueur intermixed with licorice, incense, graphite and vanillin are followed by a wine with a meaty cassis note, lavender and forest floor. This full-bodied, inky, purple-colored wine is still young, but approachable and luscious. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. The bigger-than-life, formidable, long-time winemaker at Beringer, Ed Sbragia, has his own operation in Sonoma and turns out some of the best wines money can buy. Sbragia has never forgotten that ultimately it is the consumer who makes the market. That consumer has to make a living as well as have discretionary income to buy fine wine and Ed always seems to have realistic, if not humble, prices. His six wines I tasted from 2004 all performed well. Sbragia’s Cabernet Sauvignons are one of his strengths, along with his Zinfandels and Chardonnays. Tel. (707) 473-2992

Tastes a bit overripe, with a raisiny, stewed berry edge to the red and black currant fruit. That note of hot sweetness makes the mountain tannins hard and obvious.——S.H.(3/1/2008)—— 86