The 2006 Barbaresco Vanotu is the darkest and most vibrant of these Barbarescos. Everything falls perfectly into place in this opulent yet beautifully balanced Vanotu. The expressive, balsamic aromas meld into a rich, expansive core of fruit. The wine continues on the palate, showing exceptional length and fine overall balance. For the first time I can recall, the French oak is not distracting. This sumptuous, refined Barbaresco is a fine effort from Giorgio Pelissero. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2026. Giorgio Pelissero is a young, passionate producer based in Treiso. As outstanding as the Barbarescos can be, I find just as much pleasure in his Dolcettos and Barberas, which are among the finest in the region. From top to bottom, this is a first-class set of wines. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

This beautiful wine would pair with a long list of foods from roast pork with white beans to risotto with freshly shaved truffles. Giorgio Pelissero’s wine offers excellent concentration and penetrating aromas of coffee, Christmas spice, black currant and slate. It has bright ruby highlights backed by cooling acidity and firm tannins.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 92