The demi-sec 1997 Montlouis Clos Habert offers floral, quince-laden aromas. Its medium-to-full-bodied character is somewhat heavy and plodding, yet it is filled with delicious clay, earth, and sea shell-like flavors. This wine's density and concentration would have earned it a higher score if it had been better balanced. Anticipated maturity: now-2006. Importers: Fruit of the Vine, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 459-9703, and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel (781) 395-3300.