The 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba offers up dark cherries, crushed flowers, cloves, menthol, licorice and new leather. The wine shows good length in an understated, feminine style, but the firm tannins expose a slight lack of richness to the fruit. Ideally, the estate’s Nebbiolo is best enjoyed before the fruit begins to fade. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Hilberg-Pasquero is one of my favorite wineries in Roero. The wines are made with a natural, non-interventionalist approach in both the vineyards and cellar. As a result, there can be some variation in quality from vintage to vintage, but at their best these are some of the most unique reds readers will come across. Importer: Vignaioli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 686-3095