The current Alphonse Mellot is the 19th to bear the name, always passed in the family from father to son. Made from 80-year-old vines, aged on the lees before bottling, the wine has a fine concentration, giving generosity, a hint of yeastiness, spice, pink grapefruit and even a final burst of opulence.——R.V.(9/1/2009)—— 92