His 2005 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen offers a fine balance of brothy, salty minerality and richness of fruit along with a hefty substantiality. While it is aromatically restrained, a rich melange of beet root, lentil, smoked pork and chicken broth saturate and cling to the palate. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($23.00; 85)Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700