Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen, Wachau, Austria

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The Pichler 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen offers a sweetly smoky Szechuan peppercorn-like note in the nose and corresponding piquancy on a glossy yet persistently juicy palate dominated by roasted red peppers, honeydew, and fresh lime but still with some of the crunch and subtle bitterness of salad greens that were a more prominent feature of the corresponding Federspiel. Given that it weighs-in at 13.4% alcohol, this displays a surprising not to mention delightful sense of lift, and there is an interactive intensity of peppery, sweetly vegetal, citric, and diverse mineral nuances in the finish that go beyond what one what one has any right to expect from a generic bottling, least of all in this difficult vintage. Expect this to perform well for at least 8-10 years. “Early on, we were concerned about the high acidity,” admits Rudi Pichler “but when we did the first analyses, still in September, they already showed a one-to-one ratio of tartaric to malic acid. And the rain was not a bad thing really, as it insured that the vines deposited enormous extract in the grapes. In the end, a small adjustment to the Riesling Federspiel as wine was the only de-acidification I did.” Pichler is a stickler for getting his wines to finish dry, and residual sugar was the last thing he said he could imagine benefiting his 2010s. “For us, leaving behind sugar just doesn’t work. The sugar and acidity stand in opposition to one another, and I just don’t like that sort of wine, it’s not harmonious” he insists. Anywhere from 36 hours to three days of pre-fermentative skin contact – about which Pichler is seldom shy – probably enhanced the sense of extract and wealth of flavors on display in this collection; and given what was apparently the unusually high ratio of tartaric to malic acidity in Pichler’s fruit he could afford losing as precipitant some extra measure of the former, which typically happens with extended maceration. “But you have to know which parts of your vineyards can support this treatment,” he adds. Long stays on the lees – also part of the usual regimen – were surely beneficial. It would be very hard to argue with the success one tastes here from 2010, a vintage in which Pichler harvested all the way up to November 23, and one that in all modesty he clearly considers (as do I) a personal triumph.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620