Pichler’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Terrassen smells sweetly of pears and strawberries and comes to the palate with the same juiciness as this year’s lighter Gruner Veltliner’s, but with considerably more refinement, complexity, and richness. An attractive textural suggestion of creaminess and a hint of sweetness add to the charm. In the finish, the wine brings Veltliner-typical nippy notes of cress and pepper and animating acidity that offer nice counterpoint to the creaminess and red berry fruit. This offers an outstanding introduction to the Smaragd category and as such an excellent value. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

This nicely balanced GV features ripe pears and tropical fruit allied to citrus and white pepper, but just lacks that extra intensity and concentration of the best examples. Imported by Vin Divino. ——J.C.(3/1/2006)—— 87