Inky ruby. Pungent dark berry and kirsch on the nose, along with a complex array of game, spice and floral accents. Lush and creamy, with concentrated blackberry and cassis flavors, gentle acidity and a building impression of Asian spices. Nothing jammy here. The expansive finish features building blackcurrant and bitter cherry fruit and impressive length.

Incredibly dark in color but light on its feet, this wine somehow manages to hide its 15.5% alcohol under fruit that’s neither overblown or jammy. Spice- and herb-driven complexity is the order of the day, with scents of violets lending an exotic note to the aromas. It's mouthfilling and palate-coating but wonderfully balanced, picking up hints of black olive and espresso on the lingering finish. Good now, but appears to have the stuff to evolve over at least 10–15 years.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 94