The 2004 Lagrein Berger Gei displays a complex array of earthiness, tobacco, leather, minerals, smoke and spice notes to complement its gorgeously layered fruit. This dark, brooding Lagrein continued to put on weight as it sat in the glass. It is another highly pleasurable wine from Niedrist. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. Ignaz Niedrist is a small producer based outside of Bolzano. Niedrist makes one my favorite Lagreins, the Berger Gei, which in most vintages is a special wine well worth seeking out. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644