The Ignaz Niedrist 2016 Alto Adige Lagrein Gries Riserva Berger Gei pours forth with a super inky, dark and impenetrable appearance. The wine is redolent of dried blackberry and plum, with cherry skin and black currant. Those black fruit nuances cede to smoked mahogany and barbecue spice. However, this wine hails from the cool climate of the Italian Dolomites, so despite its darkness and considerable richness, it maintains a natural sense of balance and sharpness all the while. It has enough inner energy to avoid any sensations of heaviness or flatness. Lagrein is always a bit of an acquired taste, but this lovely expression (with 7,000 bottles produced) does show unique typicity and local character. The Berger Gei vineyard site is located at 250 meters above sea level with a mix of gravel, sand and igneous porphyry stone. These vines are planted in the traditional overhead pergola system that is commonly used in these mountains.